Designers cultivate a "signature" to differentiate themselves

By: Monasterio Scot | Views: 973 | Date: 13-Jan-2011

"It was comparable to last season but I wanted to perform a whole lot larger dresses," Illincic said backstage, lifting a skirt to reveal how the exaggerated rears of her satin dresses are padded for impact.

Smith and Pugh blur gender partition .The British designer Sir Paul Smith has spoken out against unnaturally thin girls about the catwalk, with the application of "bigger models".

Smith, speaking at London Fashion Week, told the Evening Standard: "I believe that after that happen is that you will see a move far from these very thin models. All of the controversy following so what happened in Madrid means a move far from those very thin girls. What is important must be: will be the girls healthy?"

Smith spoke out after showing a womenswear collection with the Royal Horticultural Halls in Westminster yesterday that continued the masculine look he started last season. Indeed, the 1st models onto his catwalk wore "mannish" navy blazers and cuffed Bermuda shorts, their waistbands yanked as a result of reveal the very best of rose-print boxer shorts.

Smith realised early on in their career that women often borrow their partners' tailored jackets and v-neck sweaters. The garorane look became one of his signatures, which for spring/summer 2007 is accessorised with lemon-yellow silk loafers, and two-tone shirts left unbuttoned to get a frisson of sex appeal.

Designers cultivate a "signature" to differentiate themselves. This applies just as much to Smith, profitable story of British fashion, as it does to up-and-coming designers. Take Roksanda Illincic, the Serbian-born designer who presented her spring collection on the English-Speaking Union in Mayfair. Illincic, 31, launched her own label in 2002, and possesses already established a signature: voluminous party dresses using haute couture fabrics left slightly unfinished in the hem.

"It was comparable to last season but I wanted to perform a whole lot larger dresses," Illincic said backstage, lifting a skirt to reveal how the exaggerated rears of her satin dresses are padded for impact.

Another aspirant designer, Gareth Pugh, 24, has was able to nail some look as his very own. Black latex stockings - entirely within the face - were worn with silver foil down jackets, angular swimsuits fit limited to cyborgs and towering lap-dancer shoes. Even though the controversy surrounding thin models continues, at Pugh's show it absolutely was barely possible to inform male model from female model: they were all joyously freakish.

Bella Freud, using relaunched label Biba about the catwalk for the first time, faces a complicated task. Heading up a brand that already has a signature - languorous dresses with art nouveau prints - she gets to tread between updating the look and keeping the brand's heritage.

However, Biba has secured one coup that is arguably more valuable than a trademark look: dressing Jennifer Lopez for that MTV Video Music Awards this month in a very silver lurex dress and matching cloche cap.

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